Saturday 26 September 2015

The Book-Buying Experience in Spain

All of us who love books are familiar with the book-buying experience in England. In shops such as Foyles or Waterstones the emphasis is on the time to browse, the comfort of the space and in short the pleasure of being surrounded by books. Having worked in a large high street bookshop in Madrid for the last 3 months of my time abroad I can say that, although at first glance it would appear fairly similar to an English shop, the book buying experience is altogether different.




Above is a photo of the ground floor of Casa del Libro; the shop I worked in as an intern bookseller. The interior of the shop, like an English bookshop, is geared towards a good browsing experience; the lighting is warm, there are soft chairs and the books are organised by author's surname to ensure it's easy to find the one you need. But that's where the similarities end.

In England browsing is an artform; I for one can while away a good 2 hours just wandering from shelf to shelf taking down books that catch my eye. The Spanish are much more direct when it comes to books. Once a customer caught sight of an oversized green tabard (such as the one Miguel is modelling in the photo above) they made a beeline for whoever was wearing it to ask for the book they were after to be brought to them. They had no interest in browsing seemingly intent on by-passing it altogether. So unused to browsing were they that many people were unable to find a book by themselves even with signs denoting the shop's sections and shelves.

Maybe it's just the English dislike of talking to strangers but I know that as a matter of pride I would much rather try to find a book for myself and only then ask an attendant if I couldn't find it. Doesn't it also take the pleasure out of being in the shop if you ask someone else to find a book for you? The majority of the customers in Casa del Libro treated book-buying like shopping for any other product they needed. Many had done research on the internet beforehand and came knowing the exact title they wanted, asked for it at the front desk, waited for it to be brought to them and then headed straight for the cash register. Less a pleasurable bookish experience and more a quick trip to argos!

This is of course a generalisation and there were plenty of people who also spent significant amounts of time just enjoying being in the shop and seeing what was on offer. It was interesting to see though that on the whole buying a book in Madrid seems to be a much quicker, more practical task than in England.




One of my favourite bookshops in Madrid, Desperate Literature, attempts to counter this attitude to books. In my mind there's a fine line between creating a space that's too twee or a bit naff and a welcoming, cosy shop. The trouble it seems comes when the books begin to take second place to the pottery workshops/biscuit baking/finger painting etc. Desperate Literature manages to keep the focus firmly on the books while maintaining a varied calendar of popular events for its customers. Run by a couple from France and England respectively; an un-hurried, relaxed browsing experience is their top priority. International customers seem to embrace this wholeheartedly though I have seen a couple of Spanish visitors unsure what to do when offered a cup of tea while browsing...

This just goes to show that the Spanish aren't reluctant to adopt new practices when it comes to books. The idea of the cosy, comfy English/French bookshop is now becoming a fixture on the Spanish scene. Plenty of Spaniards have enjoyed spending time browsing for their books in shops like this for years. Take the Calle de Claudio Moyano bookstalls for instance; many a madrileño's idea of heaven on a sunny morning. What is clear, however, is that the large chain bookstores with their high footfall and impeccable customer service aren't going to slow down anytime soon.

Casa del Libro, Gran Vía, 29. 28013 Madrid

Desperate Literature, Calle Campomanes, 13, 28013 Madrid

Thursday 10 September 2015

Location, Location, Location - Where to live in Madrid

Choosing a place to live in Madrid on your year abroad can get confusing what with all the different areas of the city on offer. In this post I'm going to list the various central barrios or neighbourhoods and give a short summary of their main characteristics which hopefully will help you choose where to start your flat search!

In my time abroad I lived in 3 different flats in 3 different barrios so have quite a bit of first hand experience. I won't be going into any great detail as to the price of rooms in certain areas as this can vary but I'll give you a heads up as to the most expensive/cheap areas.

Here's a map of central Madrid with the barrios clearly marked:

 
 
Puerta del Sol/Gran Vía/Callao
 
This is the very heart of the city; Gran Vía is the Spanish equivalent of Oxford street and is often packed with traffic and people. This is not a quiet neighbourhood though the noise is generally traffic related rather than due to clubs/music. Fantastically well connected all the shops/restaurants/bars/cinemas you could want are within walking distance and being right in the centre it's tricky to get lost. Despite its central location though I wouldn't really recommend living in this barrio; too loud and too busy!
 
Malasaña/Chueca
 
These are famously popular areas for young people/students to find a flat. Madrid's self-proclaimed "alternative" barrios Malasaña and Chueca are not for those who like peace and quiet. Malasaña defiantly holds on to the Movida Madrileña spirit of the 80s and is full of trendy bars and clubs. Brilliant independent shops can be found here and there's quite an arty/alternative vibe. Chueca is the city's gay barrio - but don't let that put you off! Sure there are plenty of gay bars etc but the atmosphere is distinctly inclusive with a pretty chilled vibe in the day time and everyone ready to party the night away! Flats here can vary in price (and quality) quite a bit as they're mainly occupied by students and other young people.
 
Colón/Alonso Martínez
 
This barrio links the more edgy Chueca with the more upmarket Chamberí and Salamanca. This is a great spot to live due to its central location and relaxed atmosphere. There are some lovely squares here with plenty of places to eat and shop. Great transport links are also another plus with a cercanías stop as well as metro. Rooms are generally quite cheap especially around Alonso Martínez. The Glorieta de Bilbao is a huge roundabout where several main streets converge; if you follow Calle Fuencarral downwards you'll be in Malasaña and then Sol in no time.
 
Las Cortes/Letras/Las Huertas/Paseo del Prado
 
These areas have more of a traditional/historic vibe. There are still plenty of restaurants and bars (Madrid's most famous jazz bar Café Central is here) but the atmosphere is calmer than Malasaña/Chueca. Unfortunately, though, their proximity to Retiro Park and the Paseo del Prado with its world famous Prado Museum means that these barrios are some of the most expensive in Madrid. Not many students or young people manage to find accommodation in these areas due to the price.
 
Operá/Palacio Real
 
This is the historic heart of Madrid where many of the oldest and most beautiful buildings are to be found. The royal palace is here surrounded by gorgeous gardens and cafes with terraces to sit out in the sun. The main theatre in Madrid is also here with world class drama and opera being performed throughout the year. Much more relaxed than the noisy Malasaña/Chueca but still very central these areas are only a 10 minute walk away from Sol and the Plaza Mayor. Not many students/young people live in these areas as their proximity to the Palace etc has pushed up the price.
 
La Latina/Austrias
 
A small, traditional barrio La Latina is perfect for eating out. The cobbled streets are full of tapas bars particularly Calle de Cava Baja which is famous for the best tapas in the city. Although still pretty close to more expensive areas like Operá this barrio is a little more affordable. One of the least touristy areas of Madrid, La Latina is a great place to witness true Spanish culture. In the day time this area is peace and quiet personified but in the evening it can get a little more lively especially along the more popular eating-out streets.
 
Puerta de Toledo/Lavapies/El Rastro
 
These areas are a bit further out from the centre but still very easy to get to in as little as 3 stops on the metro. Lavapies is the immigrant area of Madrid which can put people off but it's a great place to live for many reasons. Cheap accommodation, great multicultural food stores/restaurants and an interesting night life. In the daytime these areas are full of families and I often saw an African drumming group jamming away as I walked through. For the majority of my time away I lived in Embajadores, a smaller area within Lavapies, and absolutely loved it. El Rastro, Madrid's most famous flea market, is here which is also lovely to mooch around on a Sunday morning.
 
Moncloa/Arguelles
 
This area isn't actually labelled on the map above but it's the light pink section just to the west and north of Malasaña. Many of the students coming to study at Madrid's universities (eg. universidad complutense) lived here as it has such great transport links to the unis. This barrio has a really relaxed vibe with plenty of fresh air and green space; the Templo de Debod is a must see! It's also really close to Casa de Campo the huge green area to the west of the city which is great for walking/picnics etc.
 
Atocha/Retiro
 
These barrios are the closest to Retiro Park and as such are the greenest in the city. Though the majority of flats here are pretty expensive you can occasionally find a good deal. Having the fantastic park on your doorstep may be something you're willing to pay a little extra for! This is a more family focussed part of the city so if it's great nightlife you're after you might want to look elsewhere (though oddly Madrid's most famous club Teatro Kapital is here). Despite being further out of the city you can still hop on the metro and be in Sol in as little as 20 minutes. Atocha railway station is also useful to have nearby as it's where most trains that will take you to explore the rest of Spain will leave from. I lived here for a few months and although the park was right behind my apartment building the huge Paseo Reina Cristina was right in front. This meant that I couldn't really have the windows open because of the noise given off by 7 lanes of speeding traffic - something to think about.
 
Salamanca
 
Salamanca is without doubt the most expensive barrio in Madrid. Huge, wide streets are lined with luxury shops, restaurants and lounge bars. The people that live here are usually a little older having made a success of their careers and are now able to afford a swankier apartment. Also a very family oriented area of the city there are play grounds and designer kids shops dotted about. I was lucky enough to experience life here during my first month in Madrid living in my homestay and could see why it was so popular. Unfortunately, unless you've got quite a bit of money to spend, the rent on a flat here is likely to be just too much but with so many other great places to live in Madrid that's not anything to be disappointed about! 
 
I hope you've found this post useful; if you have any questions just comment below or tweet me @madridadrift. Once you've an idea of where you want to live check out my post on finding a flat which takes you through the process step by step.
 
Tips
  • I focussed on the centre of Madrid for this post but there are plenty of other areas to choose from that are further out of the city.
  • Have a think about where you're going to spend most of your time. If you only need to be in uni for a few hours a week you might not have to live right next door. In fact one of my friends was studying in another town, Alcalá, and chose to live in Madrid catching the train to uni a few times a week.
  • If, like me, you want somewhere that is quiet at night so as not to lose out on sleep then make sure to check out the area you're thinking of on a Thursday, Friday or Saturday night to see how loud it gets
  • Don't get in a panic choosing between areas. Where you live isn't the be-all-and-end-all; think of your flat as a base from which to explore the rest of the city. Madrid is such a great place to live because although it's big enough to hold all the great shops/restaurants/museums/clubs etc. you could want it's still small enough to walk between them. If you find you end up living in an area that wouldn't really be your first choice it doesn't mean you can't experience the other barrios as they're often only a short walk away!
 
 
* The map of Madrid's barrios above was found on laurenonlocation.com

 

Saturday 5 September 2015

Magical Madrid - For the romantics out there...

Madrid is a magical city with many a hidden corner to explore. This post is for those of us who crave a bit of theatricality in our lives; a touch of mystery, a dash of eccentricity, the swish of red velvet and flickering candles or the thrill that only a secret entrance can give. Here I've compiled a list of three out of the many spots I've discovered in Madrid to satisfy that craving...

1. Platea Madrid

This is one of the places I found that really made me happy. An old abandoned theatre restored to its former glory and turned into a swanky bar/restaurant with live music acts and a distinctly classy atmosphere. Accessed from the street via an entrance at the back of a fruit and vegetable shop it's sufficiently secret too...


Another English girl I met on the plane back to Madrid invited me for a drink and this was the place she picked. Making our way past the immaculately presented fruit and veg I was amazed to see the ceiling rise and the floor drop away to encompass an entire theatre! The building covers several floors and many different food stalls and restaurant booths. The tinto de verano I ordered at the bar came in a goldfish bowl sized glass and was accompanied by a free jazz concert on the stage above us. Steeped in old-school glamour, this is definitely a place not to be missed; perfect for when the parents visit or to take a boyfriend or girlfriend out for drinks/dinner.

Platea Madrid, Calle Goya, 5-7 (+34915770025)

 2. Capas Seseña

No self respecting musketeer/highwayman/toreador/witch/nobleman/outlaw is complete without a cape and for me this has to be perhaps the most romantic item of clothing ever invented. Founded in 1901, Capas Seseña is the only shop in the world that only sells capes and only capes made on the premises at that.


From old-fashioned black wool capes lined with silk to the more modern cropped and colourful numbers on the catwalks today this shop has it all. Unless you've got a spare £300 or more burning a hole in your pocket you're unlikely to be able to afford one of these beauties but we can all press our noses against the glass and daydream...

Capas Seseña, Calle de la Cruz 23 (0034 91 531 6840) www.sesena.com

3. El Jardín Secreto

This place isn't exactly secret or hidden, I found it in my lonely planet guidebook, but it's certainly eccentric. One of the most popular bars in Madrid for a drink with friends or a date-night, the interior of this place is truly unique.
 

 

Glowing teapots and rainbow hot air balloons hang from the ceiling with tables made out of clocks and chairs made from huge sea turtle shells. An immense giraffe towers over everything in the corner while swathes of exotic flowers and colourful fabrics are draped around the windows. The menu is also pretty unique with fruity, fizzy drinks rubbing shoulders with teas and coffees, gorgeous puddings and a range of tasty main courses. Once you step inside you'll feel like you've fallen down a rabbit hole into a kind of dream land - the perfect place to excape from it all!

El Jardín Secreto, Calle Conde Duque 2, (+34 915 41 80 23)


There are plenty of other magical places in Madrid that bring out the romantic in all of us. If you know of any please comment below - I'd love to hear about them!

* The photo of Platea Madrid was taken from guiadelocio.com