(Literally) Cool Places in Madrid

It's now the last week of June here in Madrid and the temperatures have soared. Once a fairly toasty 32 degrees the thermometer on the bus stop outside my flat now reads in the early 40s. This isn't lovely, sunhat and ice-lolly holiday weather this is lie down in a darkened room with a fan on at full blast and pray it cools down soon weather. You know things are getting serious when even the city itself can't take the heat and the plants shrivel while the tarmac melts into a shiny black mess. Things have gone beyond sitting in the shade with a cocktail - you need to be in an air conditioned space NOW! Here are a few of the places I've found that, while still providing some interest, will keep you from roasting where you stand:

1. Museums

 

 

One of the nicest ways to spend an afternoon is in one of Madrid's many museums. Depending on what you fancy there's something to suit everyone from ancient artefacts, to modern art, to books, or even waxwork celebrities. Though full-price tickets can often seem a bit steep there are options for students (make sure to take your ID card) and sometimes designated free opening times (check online for info). A couple of my favourites are the Museo Arqueológico Nacional and the Museo Reina Sofía.

2. The Cinema

When the heat is at its highest, round late afternoon, what could be nicer than sipping an iced drink in the cool darkness while watching the next box-office hit? Being a capital city Madrid has plenty of cinemas dotted around the place so they're easy to find. The two that I normally go to are Cine Princesa near Plaza de España and Cine Ideal just along Calle Carretas a little way back from Sol. Wednesday is the best day to go as tickets are significantly cheaper (around 5 euros instead of the usual 9 or 10) and it's something fun to do mid-week. You can check which films are available online; many show English Language films with Spanish subtitles (these are labelled VOS on the posters). Don't worry if the film you're desperate to see hasn't come out abroad yet, it generally will though sometimes a month or so later.

3. Indoor Shopping Centres

I can hardly believe I'm including this on a supposedly "fun things to do" list, I find shopping pretty stressful, but desperate times call for desperate measures. Throughout the year if I've seen anything I like in a shop window I've usually just let it pass...too much hassle. Now, though, as it's now or never I've reluctantly decided to take the plunge and GO SHOPPING! After my first disastrous trip round the centre of Madrid in the full heat of the afternoon I thought there had to be a better way and there is - indoor shopping centres! My favourite is Principe Pio. Here you can find all the main highstreet stores and many more without the baking heat and screaming children. What's more it's right next to the metro mouth for Principe Pio so involves barely a minute of sweaty walking between the air conditioned train and a shopper's paradise. As it's coming to the end of June most shops have got their sales on and I have to say that despite myself I had quite a good time mooching around here the other afternoon.

4. Madrid Snow Zone

If you really can't bear the heat any longer and are yearning to be far away where the breeze blows through the mountains and the pine trees are sparkling with frost then your best bet is to visit Madrid Snow Zone. This indoor ski slope is the closest you're going to get to the chilly north while stuck in Madrid. From about 35 euros you can hire all the necessary gear and spend about an hour and a half whizzing down on real, ice cold, snow. The journey to Xanadú, the out of town shopping centre that houses the slope, may be a bit of a chore in the heat but once your breath is forming misty clouds in front of you, you'll be glad you made the effort.

Those are a few of the places I've found to take refuge in during the hot summer here in Madrid but I just thought I'd end with a few common sense tips on keeping cool in the city:

How To Beat the Heat!

• There's a reason the Spanish take a siesta (they're not just being lazy). The heat gradually builds throughout the day until it becomes unbearable around 4-5 o'clock. Follow their lead and take it easy in the afternoon; planning on doing anything other than relaxing over a late lunch and staying inside until the heat dies down a little is just asking for trouble.
• If you're lucky where you're living has air conditioning. If not BUY A FAN! You won't be able to survive otherwise...
• Be sensible and take the precautions you would in England - wear a hat, slap on the sunscreen and carry water everywhere you go - there's nothing worse than getting a headache and feeling sick due to sunstroke.
• Stock up on all things icey! I'm talking ice cubes, ice lollies, ice packs. Half fill your water bottle the night before and leave it in the freezer; next morning you'll have a ready supply of chilled water. Leave a jug of water in the fridge to use throughout the day.
• Keep your windows CLOSED!! This may sound counter-intuitive; you want fresh air right? Not in summer in Madrid; the air outside is hotter than inside. The only way to keep your apartment cool is to keep the windows closed and the blinds down throughout the day. Then when you get back from uni/work turn on the fan and only open the windows when there's a noticeable drop in the outside temperature.
• When out and about you'll often see people, especially women, carrying wooden hand-held fans. There's some debate about whether these are worth it or not with some claiming the action of fanning yourself generates more heat than it avoids...but maybe have one in your bag just in case.
• Take the metro! Walking long distances through the city like we used to during the autumn and spring is out of the question now.

and lastly...

• Don't forget to eat! I know it sounds stupid but with the weather so hot most of us just can't face eating a big dinner or standing over the hot oven. Though it's summer you still need regular meals but, instead of trying to force down huge, hot dinners, eat little and often throughout the day. The Spanish have been dealing with this heat for centuries and thankfully have come up with some great cooling recipes. Why not give the refreshingly tomatoey andalucían Salmorejo or Gazpacho a try? These cold soups are delicious with crusty bread and a few slices of jamón.

Sorting Out a NIE (Spanish Insurance Number)

Once you've been in Spain for a little while and have sorted all the most pressing issues such as where you'll live and how you'll be travelling to and from uni/work, you'll want to get your hands on a NIE or Spanish insurance number. Without one you won't be able to open an account in most banks and apparently it's actually a legal requirement to get one before you've been living in Spain for 3 months so don't faff about!

I remember being told something about going to the police station to get one in an induction lecture back in Southampton but it's actually a bit more complicated than that. For a start you can't just go to any old police station... In this post I'll talk you through how I got hold of mine step by step - I hope you find it helpful.

Step 1: Making an Appointment

Like everything in Spain you can't just turn up with your documents and ask for what you want; you need to make an appointment online first.

Go to this website: https://sede.administracionespublicas.gob.es/icpplus/citar

You will need to select your province from the first drop down menu (in my case Madrid) and then from the second menu choose "CERTIFICADOS UE". The next page is terms and conditions, give these a quick read if you like and then skip forwards to input your data. This involves selecting "pasaporte" from the available documents (seeing as you won't have a NIE yet) and inputting your passport number and full name. After proving you're not a robot with one of those little letter test thingies you'll be taken to a page where it asks you to either "solicitar una cita" or "anular" an appointment you've already made. Select "solicitar una cita". The next few pages will take you through booking an appointment; there may be a choice of police stations or there may be just one and you may have to wait a while for a free slot. Make sure you select the FULL NIE that costs 10 euros and NOT the 9 euro one that means you won't have everything you need. Once you've got your appointment booked print off the confirmation email/print screen the page or write down the booking reference - you'll need it later! :)

Step 2 (optional): Getting the Bank Form Ahead of Time

A NIE costs money and you need to pay for it in advance at a bank and then bring the bank receipt as proof of payment to your appointment at the Police Station. Before you head to the bank though you need to go to the Police Station to get hold of the NIE form you'll need to take to the bank... bear with me people. For some this might mean a separate trip to the station and then the bank if they're quite far apart (hence why this step is optional) but in Madrid it can all be done in the same day. I'll explain exactly how I did this in the following few steps:

Step 3: Things You Will Need

• 2 copies of a document that provides a reason for you to be in Spain e.g. your work contract or your uni forms etc. Original and photocopy
• Your European Health Insurance Card (EHIC)
• Your Passport and a photocopy
• Proof you have an appointment (this is where the printed off email/reference number comes in!)
• The 10 euros to pay for your NIE
• (Then later the bank receipt as proof of payment for your NIE)
• You may also be asked for a copy of your housing contract to prove you are resident in Spain.

Step 4: Appointment Time!!

You will need to set aside a good few hours or more to get your NIE. I took the whole morning off work and, due to the amount of waiting around, was glad I did!

Make sure to arrive at least an hour before your appointment time at the Police Station (in Madrid this was the Comisería General de Extranjería y Fronteras in calle Padre Piquer, 18). During this time you will need to ask for the bank form at the front desk, fill it in and take it to the nearest bank with your 10 euros. They will then sign it, stamp it and issue you with a receipt (guard this with your life!!)

Return to the Police Station with your receipt and all the other documents mentioned above.

Ask at the front desk for the EX-18 form (or ask for the NIE form - they're sure to understand) and fill this in while you are waiting. They will then give you your queue number.

When your number comes up it's your turn to get your NIE. The appointment itself was actually incredibly straightforward; I just handed my documents over one by one and after about 15 minutes I emerged clutching my little green card.

Now you are officially registered to live and work in Spain! Woohoo!

I hope this was useful; if you have any questions just leave them down below, fb me or tweet me using +MadridAdrift :)

Royal Madrid - El Palacio y El Jardín Botánico

I'm not sure whether it was the popularity of the Palacio Real as a tourist attraction or the price of the tickets that made me wait until my parents were with me in April to pay it a visit... All I can say is that I'm so glad I eventually got round to going as I was blown away by its shere gorgeousness! The irony is that we weren't allowed to take any photos inside the building so I'm unable to show you how truly magical it was. If you're someone who enjoys history, art or even just beautiful things in general then you really must experience the inside of this palace!

I'd walked past the building all the way back in October when Irene, a lovely intern from the museum where I worked, was showing me around:

 

It was a little cloudier on the day that I eventually got to see inside:

 

As I said my parents were over from England for a few days so we met up for a drink outside the Mercado de San Miguel to people watch and enjoy some olives/nibbles.

 

 

 

We then headed over to the Palace to queue for tickets and make our way into the first entrance hall.

 

 

 

This really doesn't do the rest of the building justice (we've all seen a few painted ceilings in our time) but I'm afraid this was the cut off point for photos. I tried to get a few sneaky snaps later on but was immediately cornered by a warden. The shere luxury that the royal family enjoyed is almost painful when you compare it to the life of a regular Spanish citizen in the 16th century. Every inch of floor, ceiling and wall space has been beautified to the point of ridiculousness; it was like standing inside a Fabergé egg. There are rooms that are inlaid with precious stones in swirling floral patterns across the walls and floor, others are entirely covered in gleaming ceramic tiles while still more are hung with jewel bright silk tapestries. Furniture and exotic ornaments from all around the world fill chambers lit by antique crystal chandeliers and ornate wall sconces. The soft ticking of an exquisitely made gold, silver or ebony clock can be heard almost everywhere throughout the palace. When the audio guide told me that the golden lions flanking the royal thrones had been there for 400 years my historian's heart rose to heaven - just think of all the history they've seen!

A couple of afternoons later we paid a visit to another Madrid attraction with royal connections - the Real Jardín Botánico.

 

 

The entrance to the garden is on the Paseo del Prado just a little way along from the Prado Museum. There's not much to say apart from the fact that it's full of beautiful plants and flowers. It was lovely to just wander about with my parents and take some photos:

 

 

 

 There are huge glass hothouses full of twisting vines and tropical trees:

 

Here's my attempt at an arty photo... I thought the reflections on the water made it look like the fish were swimming through the sky:

 

 

 

 

I can't recommend the Palacio Real enough for lovers of history and it's definitely worth the 11 euro ticket - though make sure to get an audio guide!! The Jardín Botánico is also definitely worth a visit if you're in the area and looking for a break from the traffic and bustle of Madrid's busy streets.



El Club Allard - A Michelin Star Experience!

Last week Chris came out to visit me again for the last time before I'm home for the summer. Seeing as I've lived here for 9 months it's unlikely that we'll be back in Madrid on holiday for a while so we thought we'd make the most of it and try one of the swankiest restaurants around; El Club Allard. This place has been awarded not one but two Michelin stars over the years and its popularity is attested by how hard it was to book a table (we nabbed the very last one!). We were led to our corner, our drinks were poured and then the fun began. A waitress brought over a small bowl of peanut dip and told us that the restaurant business cards on the table were actually the first course - though they looked like paper they were actually wafer thin potato! This was followed by a snack of crusty bread, rock salt and the most gorgeous olive oil I've ever tasted. The first starter was slivers of smoked eel with a light coconut sauce - I never thought I would have enjoyed eel but it was delicious.

 

 

The second starter (pictured above) was actually my favourite dish on the whole taster menu. Crispy fried sea urchins were accompanied by a tiny salad of quinoa and other crunchy vegetables sliced incredibly finely. The pipette was filled with a "sea urchin emulsion" which was also delicious.

 

The next course I was not so fond of. A shot of butter fish and white asparragus accompanied by a crisp bread and tiny jewel-like globules of olive oil. The shot or "chupito" was warm and frothy and the globules, though pretty, and I'm told difficult to make, were incredibly salty. This I think was my fault rather than the restaurant's as I'm particularly sensitive to salt and don't really put much on my food normally. Up next was a tiny "cupcake" or tart made of truffle and quail's eggs:

A beautiful flower made of incredibly thinly sliced fish in the Japanese Usuzukuri style was filled with a coriander foam and tomato chunks.

"Sea Rice" was accompanied by delicate green prawn crackers in the shape of shells and a seaweed salad.

 

The cod was so well cooked that it broke apart at the touch of a fork and the light tomato "infusion" was lovely. The "smearing" technique for food presentation seemed to be very much in fashion for these later dishes...

 

 

 

 The roasted pork was delicious and accompanied by a banana puree and a rice wafer. The next tiny dish or "pre-pudding" was designed to be a palette cleanser and was made up of a fresh hibiscus foam in a sugared flower with pistachio crumbs.

 

The first true pudding was called "petals" and was rose themed. A pink rose mousse was covered with a light sugar coating and sprinkled with candied rose petals. Peeking out from under the rose petal was a zesty lime sorbet and "orange air" which was a really interesting eating experience. You put a spoonful of the bubbles on your tongue and it was almost as if you were smelling the orange rather than tasting it.

The next pudding was called "chocolate rocks" and contained chunks of chocolate sponge, a scoop of cinnamon and pepper ice cream, mint "rocks" and cocoa crumbs. The ice cream was gorgeous - spicy but sweet at the same time.

The very last course on the taster menu was a black board with edible chalk and board rubbers. The chalk was made out of sugared passionfruit and the letters were candied ginger. After the meal was over we realised we'd been eating for over 3 hours! The restaurant was empty apart from us and the waiters were clearing tables and snuffing out candles.

 

When it comes to food I have pretty simple tastes; if it's tasty and there's lots of it I'm happy. I was fairly sceptical about the concept of a taster menu with all the teeny tiny dishes. What if I didn't like any of them? What if I was still hungry at the end? But I'm so glad I let Chris talk me into going (he's wanted to try Michelin star cooking for ages) and have discovered new foods like sea urchin that I never knew I liked.

 

The restaurant was super pricey but it was the last time we'd be in Madrid together and also our anniversary so we just went for it! It was a brilliant introduction to the world of fine dining and an insight into modern Spanish cooking. If you're in Madrid and looking for a great lunch or dinner experience with beautifully presented, tasty food then this is the place to be! I'd start saving the pennies now though...

El Club Allard can be found at Calle Ferraz, 2 with the nearest metro station being Plaza de España

El Jardín Secreto

Tucked away at the top of the Salvador Bachiller building in Calle Montera is Madrid's worst kept secret - El Jardin Secreto. This bar/café is so popular that I've been turned away several times as all the tiny tables were packed with people. Persevere though, or better still make a booking, and you won't be disappointed.

 

 

The partly covered glass roof, along with the greenery and most importantly the ice cool water spray that mists in clouds periodically from the walls mean that the temperature here on the roof is kept comfortable while the sun burns from on high.

 

 



 

The garden theme runs throughout with flowers on every table, a rope swing, leaf shaped coasters and of course the pots and pots of plants. The waitresses in their red air hostess uniforms (something that I didn't completely understand) are kept busy ferrying glass after glass of fruity iced cocktails, lemonade and milkshakes to and from the bar at one end. I only briefly glanced at the menu as we were there just to grab a drink but it seemed fairly wide ranging with plenty of sandwiches and light meals.

 

 



 

If what you're after is a good view of Madrid from on high then head elsewhere as this place is mainly surrounded by trellis and only faces the busy Calle Montera at one end. (Look out for a future post on the terraza at Palacio de Cibeles!)

 

 

 

 

The lovely garden theme is what makes this place well worth a visit and it's perfect for a first date or a birthday lunch with friends. If you arrive and there's a waiting list don't despair - we were kept waiting for only about 20 mins and then led to our table. You'd be hard pushed to find a better place to relax over a cocktail or a cup of tea!

 

 

El Jardín Secreto is located on the roof of the Salvador Bachiller building at Calle Montera, 37.