Lolo - The Best Ice Lollies in the World!

Sitting in the autumn sunshine in our garden here in the UK had me reminiscing about what an incredible summer it's been...and I suddenly remembered I forgot to tell you all about a great little discovery I made in Madrid! So in a change from the scheduled post on Cuba (coming soon!) I'm dedicating this post to Lolo - the best ice lolly shop in the world.

On our post-exam getaway Annie, Cat and I discovered this gem of a shop on a stroll through Malasaña. The ice lollies (or polos in Spanish) are all entirely natural, made of real fruit and fruit juices and without a preservative or flavouring in sight. And what flavours! Paraguaya (peach) and rose, raspberry and hibiscus tea, mango yoghurt and cardamom, cucumber and violet, lemon tart - the list is never ending.

 

 

As we enjoy the last of this year's warmer weather in England I'm sure the days are still bright enough and the nights still hot enough for a cheeky ice lolly or two in Madrid. With stores open til 1 in the morning Lolo's will be ready whenever you are!

Lolo's can be found in Malasaña in C/ Espíritu Santo, 16 and they also now have a stall at the Mercado de San Antón

LUSH the International Cosmetics Phenomenon

Most people who've lived abroad for some time will tell you that after a while it's the familiar things that jump out at you rather than the unusual. When I first saw the black and white LUSH sign amongst all the Spanish shop fronts along Calle Fuencarral I was immediately tempted to step inside. It's a similar feeling to when you're in a foreign supermarket and spot a brand from back home; you often pick it up even if you don't end up buying it.

For years I had walked straight past the LUSH shop in my home town. I have a particularly sensitive sense of smell and the tidal wave of sweet fragrance billowing out onto the street was enough to keep me moving. The windows were also always piled high with bath bombs; a product I've never really been all that interested in.

 

That morning in Madrid, however, was different. In the mood for a bit of "England" I pushed open the shop door and discovered a brand that has kept me thinking ever since. The first thing I noticed was how unbelievably popular the shop was; you could hardly move for customers weaving between the display stands and lining up alongside the tills. A shop assistant sprang out of nowhere and asked if I needed any help. 10 minutes later I'd had at least 3 different lotions and potions smoothed into the backs of my hands to demonstrate their scents and moisturising powers. LUSH's product range is varied and includes a vast array of skin care, hair care and shower products. Far from just a pile of bath bombs...

As a brand LUSH is unique, with a set of values that have become almost a way of life for some: the products it sells and the personality it promotes is unlike anything else on the high street. LUSH differentiates itself from its competitors by offering an alternative to the synthetic, chemical-laden products that can be found in Boots or Superdrug. Perhaps its closest competitor, the Body Shop, though also promoting the use of natural ingredients, is left behind by LUSH's "fresh" promise. LUSH products are handmade, free from preservatives and are all labelled with an expiry date. They also experiment with innovative product formulations; shampoo and shower gel is available in liquid, solid, jelly or paper form. Price range is wide allowing everyone to take home a bit of LUSH.

The most important aspect of LUSH as a brand is what it stands for. A philosophy of ethical buying, reduced packaging, cruelty free products, organic ingredients, vegetarian formulations, recycling and contributing to charity initiatives makes this the most feel-good store on the high street. LUSH does not advertise. Instead a host of self titled "lushies" or "lush addicts" fill online platforms with a never ending stream of LUSH related content. The brand's gorgeous visuals, bright colours and sleek, black, oh-so-collectable packaging, could have been made for Instagram.

The Madrid store is just one of 11 others in business in Spain. In 2014 LUSH had 102 stores open in the UK while Japan houses an astonishing 153. This brand seems to be truly transferable to other markets. Protecting the environment, fighting animal testing and the use of fresh, natural products are concepts that consumers in most European countries are fully behind. In Asia however, the fashion is for the beauty industry to focus on cutting edge science and complex formulas. It seems that LUSH has found a way around this by highlighting the novelty of its products. In the land of Hello Kitty and Pikachu, sweet smelling, brightly coloured bath bombs in the shape of Easter bunnies and glittery hearts are sure to strike a chord.

LUSH has recently expanded into perfume, spa-treatments and make up. Now with over 900 international stores, great transferability to other markets and an enviable relationship with its customers I'm excited to see what they come up with next.
 

The Chino - A Spanish Institution

In my first few weeks in Madrid I discovered what would later become an essential part of life in the city; the Chino. These are the equivalent of the corner shop in England and sell everything from stationary and food to bed linen and crockery. We were forever popping out to the Chino for something or other.

If you're on the hunt for one you won't have to look far; any shop with the words "Alimentación" or "Bazar" on the sign is more often than not a Chino. They also often make a play on the famous Spanish department store El Corte Ingles and call themselves "El Corte Chino". The unequivocal king of the Chinos in my opinion is La Casa de Pin on the Ronda de Atocha; an absolute palace spread over three floors devoted to homeware, knick knacks and everything else you could want.

In Spanish the word "chino/a" means "chinese man/chinese woman" or can simply be used as an adjective to mean chinese e.g. "la tienda china". It's not surprising therefore that these shops are run by chinese families who have migrated over the years to Spain. Coming from England, where we're all so desperate to be seen as politically correct, I was a bit reluctant to use the word Chino at first, it just seemed a bit rude somehow.

We've all heard someone say that all English corner shops are run by "pakis" or make jokes about "Mr Patel" something which often comes across as racist even if it's intended to be funny. Here, just like in every aspect of their life, the Spanish take a more direct approach. The shops are run by chinese people or "chinos" so they use the same name for the shop. This might seem a bit demeaning but it's really innocent. I'm sure if they were run by russians or greeks they'd call them "rusos" or "griegos". Throughout my year in Madrid I never once heard anyone be racist towards a chino (person or shop).

If you're living in Spain for any length of time "chino" will just become part of your new Spanish vocabulary. Need a new lightbulb or adaptor plug? Head to the Chino. Forgotten to buy pasta or need some decorations to jazz up your new room? The Chino's got you covered. I even bought an emergency suitcase from La Casa de Pin the day before flying home as my mountain of stuff refused to be squashed into the two I'd brought with me.

What's more these shops are often open long after the supermarkets shut on a Sunday or Saint's day; something you will be eternally grateful for when you check your cupboards that morning and find them empty...

Why I Love Autumn in Madrid

1. The leaves go gold but the sky stays blue!

Unlike the English autumn where we might have a few sunny days but the majority is muggy, wet and grey, autumn in Madrid is just perfect. This is the best season to visit El Retiro park and soak up some hazy sunshine. Jazz bands play, kids scoot by on go-karts and everything is right with the world...

 

 

 

2. Hot chocolate is a thing the Spanish do VERY well

If you ask for "una taza de chocolate" or a cup of chocolate in Madrid that's just what you get; a cup of thick melted chocolate. This is perfect for dipping (any biscuits/churros/doughnuts will do) or, if you're feeling really naughty, gulping straight from the cup. If you're after more traditional hot chocolate (ie. chocolate powder mixed with hot milk) then ask for a "cola cao".

3. In the streets people roast chestnuts and corncobs on braziers

It always makes me smile when I see people doing this; it feels like I've hopped back in time. The men wear flat caps and stand over huge metal braziers with the smoky smell of roasting chestnuts filling the air. I've also seen bright yellow corncobs dripping in butter. In the spring and summer they also sell pastries and chocolate.

4. The fashion and shopping

Autumn is my favourite time of year whatever country I'm in. All the new autumn collections come out in the shops and we can all start wearing cosy scarves and jumpers in lovely autumnal colours. In Madrid the arrival of the season is greeted by a horde of little old ladies digging out their favourite winter coats. It may still be fairly warm but look out of an upper floor window and it seems like the streets are over-run with tiny, fuzzy bears hurrying along. The brands on offer here are often not sold in the UK so take advantage while you can - oh stradivarius I miss you so!

5. The football season starts...

I have to say that I'm not all that bothered about the football as such but the excitement in the build-up towards a game permeates the whole city. I used to live right next to Santiago de Bernabeu stadium and the noise of people in the streets after a match was incredible - it definitely creates a great atmosphere. What's more it's a great conversation starter - ask a madrileño/a whether they support Real Madrid or Atlético Madrid and see what happens...

6. The food

If you're in need of some culinary inspiration this autumn head to one of Madrid's many food markets. Here you'll find the stalls piled high with nuts, mushrooms, pumpkins and many other beautifully coloured autumnal delights.

* The photo of the old ladies in their fur coats in the plaza mayor was found on misadventuresofjason.blogspot.com

Magical Madrid - For the romantics out there...

Madrid is a magical city with many a hidden corner to explore. This post is for those of us who crave a bit of theatricality in our lives; a touch of mystery, a dash of eccentricity, the swish of red velvet and flickering candles or the thrill that only a secret entrance can give. Here I've compiled a list of three out of the many spots I've discovered in Madrid to satisfy that craving...

1. Platea Madrid

This is one of the places I found that really made me happy. An old abandoned theatre restored to its former glory and turned into a swanky bar/restaurant with live music acts and a distinctly classy atmosphere. Accessed from the street via an entrance at the back of a fruit and vegetable shop it's sufficiently secret too...

Another English girl I met on the plane back to Madrid invited me for a drink and this was the place she picked. Making our way past the immaculately presented fruit and veg I was amazed to see the ceiling rise and the floor drop away to encompass an entire theatre! The building covers several floors and many different food stalls and restaurant booths. The tinto de verano I ordered at the bar came in a goldfish bowl sized glass and was accompanied by a free jazz concert on the stage above us. Steeped in old-school glamour, this is definitely a place not to be missed; perfect for when the parents visit or to take a boyfriend or girlfriend out for drinks/dinner.

Platea Madrid, Calle Goya, 5-7 (+34915770025)

 2. Capas Seseña

No self respecting musketeer/highwayman/toreador/witch/nobleman/outlaw is complete without a cape and for me this has to be perhaps the most romantic item of clothing ever invented. Founded in 1901, Capas Seseña is the only shop in the world that only sells capes and only capes made on the premises at that.

From old-fashioned black wool capes lined with silk to the more modern cropped and colourful numbers on the catwalks today this shop has it all. Unless you've got a spare £300 or more burning a hole in your pocket you're unlikely to be able to afford one of these beauties but we can all press our noses against the glass and daydream...

Capas Seseña, Calle de la Cruz 23 (0034 91 531 6840) www.sesena.com

3. El Jardín Secreto

This place isn't exactly secret or hidden, I found it in my lonely planet guidebook, but it's certainly eccentric. One of the most popular bars in Madrid for a drink with friends or a date-night, the interior of this place is truly unique.

 

 

Glowing teapots and rainbow hot air balloons hang from the ceiling with tables made out of clocks and chairs made from huge sea turtle shells. An immense giraffe towers over everything in the corner while swathes of exotic flowers and colourful fabrics are draped around the windows. The menu is also pretty unique with fruity, fizzy drinks rubbing shoulders with teas and coffees, gorgeous puddings and a range of tasty main courses. Once you step inside you'll feel like you've fallen down a rabbit hole into a kind of dream land - the perfect place to excape from it all!

El Jardín Secreto, Calle Conde Duque 2, (+34 915 41 80 23)


There are plenty of other magical places in Madrid that bring out the romantic in all of us. If you know of any please comment below - I'd love to hear about them!

* The photo of Platea Madrid was taken from guiadelocio.com

(Literally) Cool Places in Madrid

It's now the last week of June here in Madrid and the temperatures have soared. Once a fairly toasty 32 degrees the thermometer on the bus stop outside my flat now reads in the early 40s. This isn't lovely, sunhat and ice-lolly holiday weather this is lie down in a darkened room with a fan on at full blast and pray it cools down soon weather. You know things are getting serious when even the city itself can't take the heat and the plants shrivel while the tarmac melts into a shiny black mess. Things have gone beyond sitting in the shade with a cocktail - you need to be in an air conditioned space NOW! Here are a few of the places I've found that, while still providing some interest, will keep you from roasting where you stand:

1. Museums

 

 

One of the nicest ways to spend an afternoon is in one of Madrid's many museums. Depending on what you fancy there's something to suit everyone from ancient artefacts, to modern art, to books, or even waxwork celebrities. Though full-price tickets can often seem a bit steep there are options for students (make sure to take your ID card) and sometimes designated free opening times (check online for info). A couple of my favourites are the Museo Arqueológico Nacional and the Museo Reina Sofía.

2. The Cinema

When the heat is at its highest, round late afternoon, what could be nicer than sipping an iced drink in the cool darkness while watching the next box-office hit? Being a capital city Madrid has plenty of cinemas dotted around the place so they're easy to find. The two that I normally go to are Cine Princesa near Plaza de España and Cine Ideal just along Calle Carretas a little way back from Sol. Wednesday is the best day to go as tickets are significantly cheaper (around 5 euros instead of the usual 9 or 10) and it's something fun to do mid-week. You can check which films are available online; many show English Language films with Spanish subtitles (these are labelled VOS on the posters). Don't worry if the film you're desperate to see hasn't come out abroad yet, it generally will though sometimes a month or so later.

3. Indoor Shopping Centres

I can hardly believe I'm including this on a supposedly "fun things to do" list, I find shopping pretty stressful, but desperate times call for desperate measures. Throughout the year if I've seen anything I like in a shop window I've usually just let it pass...too much hassle. Now, though, as it's now or never I've reluctantly decided to take the plunge and GO SHOPPING! After my first disastrous trip round the centre of Madrid in the full heat of the afternoon I thought there had to be a better way and there is - indoor shopping centres! My favourite is Principe Pio. Here you can find all the main highstreet stores and many more without the baking heat and screaming children. What's more it's right next to the metro mouth for Principe Pio so involves barely a minute of sweaty walking between the air conditioned train and a shopper's paradise. As it's coming to the end of June most shops have got their sales on and I have to say that despite myself I had quite a good time mooching around here the other afternoon.

4. Madrid Snow Zone

If you really can't bear the heat any longer and are yearning to be far away where the breeze blows through the mountains and the pine trees are sparkling with frost then your best bet is to visit Madrid Snow Zone. This indoor ski slope is the closest you're going to get to the chilly north while stuck in Madrid. From about 35 euros you can hire all the necessary gear and spend about an hour and a half whizzing down on real, ice cold, snow. The journey to Xanadú, the out of town shopping centre that houses the slope, may be a bit of a chore in the heat but once your breath is forming misty clouds in front of you, you'll be glad you made the effort.

Those are a few of the places I've found to take refuge in during the hot summer here in Madrid but I just thought I'd end with a few common sense tips on keeping cool in the city:

How To Beat the Heat!

• There's a reason the Spanish take a siesta (they're not just being lazy). The heat gradually builds throughout the day until it becomes unbearable around 4-5 o'clock. Follow their lead and take it easy in the afternoon; planning on doing anything other than relaxing over a late lunch and staying inside until the heat dies down a little is just asking for trouble.
• If you're lucky where you're living has air conditioning. If not BUY A FAN! You won't be able to survive otherwise...
• Be sensible and take the precautions you would in England - wear a hat, slap on the sunscreen and carry water everywhere you go - there's nothing worse than getting a headache and feeling sick due to sunstroke.
• Stock up on all things icey! I'm talking ice cubes, ice lollies, ice packs. Half fill your water bottle the night before and leave it in the freezer; next morning you'll have a ready supply of chilled water. Leave a jug of water in the fridge to use throughout the day.
• Keep your windows CLOSED!! This may sound counter-intuitive; you want fresh air right? Not in summer in Madrid; the air outside is hotter than inside. The only way to keep your apartment cool is to keep the windows closed and the blinds down throughout the day. Then when you get back from uni/work turn on the fan and only open the windows when there's a noticeable drop in the outside temperature.
• When out and about you'll often see people, especially women, carrying wooden hand-held fans. There's some debate about whether these are worth it or not with some claiming the action of fanning yourself generates more heat than it avoids...but maybe have one in your bag just in case.
• Take the metro! Walking long distances through the city like we used to during the autumn and spring is out of the question now.

and lastly...

• Don't forget to eat! I know it sounds stupid but with the weather so hot most of us just can't face eating a big dinner or standing over the hot oven. Though it's summer you still need regular meals but, instead of trying to force down huge, hot dinners, eat little and often throughout the day. The Spanish have been dealing with this heat for centuries and thankfully have come up with some great cooling recipes. Why not give the refreshingly tomatoey andalucían Salmorejo or Gazpacho a try? These cold soups are delicious with crusty bread and a few slices of jamón.

La Casa Vertical

A while ago Cat and I decided to meet up for a drink and wanted to try one of the famous "roof-top" bars that are dotted around Madrid. The first one we tried in Lavapies was shut and the second one in Sol was full so we ended up wandering around and came across this shop:

 

 

 

The clothes outside were only 5 euros each so naturally we had to try some on... Inside the shop is full to bursting with Indian clothes and decorations. This place is well named as there are about 4 tiny floors all joined together by a steep wooden staircase:

We tried on several pairs of Indian trousers (or as I like to call them Aladdin pants) which are so soft and comfy!

 

In the end we bought 2 pairs each and then explored the rest of the shop. There's everything you could want here to decorate your house in an Indian style and the jewellery on offer was amazing. It's all pretty cheap too; leather rucksacks that I've seen go for about 135 euros in Toledo were only 40 euros here!

 

If you're in the area definitely check out La Casa Vertical!

Calle Imperial, 14, 28012 Madrid, Spain