Museo Lázaro Galdiano vs Museo Cerralbo

I was cleaning up the photo files on my computer when I came across a folder from ages ago when Kat and I went on a museum mission. I was well aware that my time in Madrid was coming to an end and was desperate to pack as much sight seeing and culture as possible into my remaining weeks. Museo Lázaro Galdiano and Museo Cerralbo are both smaller, lesser known museums but are well worth a visit.

Museo Lázaro Galdiano was the family home of Don José Lázaro Galdiano (1862–1947) a very wealthy businessman with a passion for the arts. A selection of his collection of over 13,000 works of art, along with sculpture, textiles and other curios from around the world, is on display here throughout the year. There are paintings by El Greco, Velázquez, John Constable and Goya alongside many others. Those who study Spanish will probably recognise Goya's La Maja Desnuda and La Maja Vestida from culture classes.

The variety of art on offer is fascinating and the museum catches and holds your attention from the beginning with the unusual portraits on display.

 

 

  

A rather unimpressed looking saint...

 

 

A very chilled baby Jesus...

 

 

 

 

Even the ceilings are gorgeously decorated and painted with beautiful scenes:

 

 



  

Kat and I were particularly enchanted by a darkened room full of glass cabinets containing sparkling silver and gold trinkets:

  

 

 

 

The museum also has rooms and rooms of textiles, armour, pottery, jewellery and all kinds of other wonders.

 

 

  

 

 

 

Museo Lázaro Galdiano is housed in an early 20th century mansion set in a small garden front and back on Calle Serrano. If you have a free morning or afternoon then it's definitely worth a visit though I would say that kids would probably lose interest fairly quickly as it's a pretty traditional gallery style experience.

 

 

 

 

 At first glance in the guide book Museo Cerralbo might not seem like much. A modest looking mansion, the museum is the former home of the Marqués de Cerralbo and the building is supposedly preserved as it was during his lifetime. So far so uninteresting you might think but old Cerralbo was a pretty eccentric chap; poet, politician and archeologist his house is PACKED with fascinating things he's collected from around the world.

 

The building itself is absolutely stunning; Kat and I were swishing down corridors pretending to be the lady of the manor, and each room is more beautiful than the last.

 

 

 

 

It's so lovely to see touches such as the telephone and bells for servants left in place:

 

 

 

For once in a historic house even the bathroom was left untouched - mum you would have appreciated this!

 

 

 

The Marqués de Cerralbo certainly knew how to decorate a house, here he is with his wife: 



 

 

 

Even the wallpaper was some of the most luxurious I've ever seen:

 

 

 

 

The ballroom was glorious and full of artwork and sculpture. Two lamps in the shape of American Indians were an interesting addition and a nod to empire and Spain's invasion of South America.

 



 

 

There's something for everyone here with kids enjoying the armoury and sword collections most:

 

 

 

 

The museum has a lovely courtyard and garden; perfect for strolling through on a summer's evening.

 





As you may have gleaned from this post Museo Cerralbo is definitely my favourite out of the two museums. If you're near Calle de Ventura Rodríguez at any point then make the effort to pay this place a visit; lovers of history and art won't be disappointed!

 

 

Which is your favourite museum in Madrid? Any suggestions would be very welcome for my future trips to the city :)

The Golden Triangle of Art

Madrid is a city absolutely bursting at the seams with history and culture. Some of the world's most famous pieces of art by history's most well known artists are kept here. The three largest and most popular art museums in the capital are said to form "the golden triangle of art". This is in fact a bit of a misnomer as they don't form a triangle exactly but more of a straight line all along the Paseo del Prado. In this post I'll give a quick summary of each museum and let you know which is my favourite (It'll be pretty obvious by the end...)

Heading northwards up the paseo the first museum you come to is the Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofia...or the Museo Reina Sofia for short. This impressive building with its shining steel and glass elevators houses a huge collection of artwork that spans the 20th century from 1900 to around 1980.

The focus is on revolt, conflict and rebellion in the art world with many pieces from the surrealist, cubist and abstract movements. Artists such as Dalí and Picasso are well represented with Picasso's famous Guernica painting a must see exhibit. This is my second favourite out of the three "golden triangle" museums. I have to say that modern art often leaves me cold; I'm not quite sure what to make of this black on black piece for example...

But there are plenty of colourful alternatives and some really beautiful examples of work from the turn of the century. I found this museum the most useful in my research for my year abroad project on the avant garde movement of the 1920s. Below is one of my favourite paintings in Madrid; Herman Anglada Camarasa's Sonia de Klamery echada. I love the use of the dark background which makes the woman herself and the jewel-bright bird almost luminous.

Here is Solana's famous painting of the Tertulia at Café Pombo:

At the Reina Sofia entrance is free on Sundays from 1.30pm to 7pm and otherwise costs 8 euros.

Next on our travels up the Paseo del Prado is, surprisingly enough, the Museo del Prado. This is without doubt Spain's most famous art museum and houses the most important collection of Spanish art in the world. Works by Rubens, El Greco and Diego Velázquez are on display alongside others from European artists from the 12th through to the 19th century. Perhaps the most famous painting by Velázquez, "las Meninas", which depicts the Spanish princess and her maids along with a self portrait of the artist is a great tourist attraction.

The collection of artwork held here is immense and you'll need to set aside at least a whole morning or afternoon to begin to take it all in.

The entrance fee is a fat 14 euros but is reduced to 7 euros for concessions. Students go free and there's free entry for all from Monday-Saturday 6-8pm and Sunday 5-7pm.

Everyone raves about the Museo del Prado and it is certainly an impressive collection of art in an impressive setting. For me though it's the third museum in the "golden triangle" that is really everything that an art museum should be. The Museo Thyssen Bornemisza sits at the top of the Paseo del Prado in a beautiful building with a lovely garden in front.

The inside of the building is just as lovely with high ceilings and plenty of natural light. The reason that I love this museum above all the others is the sheer variety of its art collection. To be honest I find the everlasting stream of religous scenes and court paintings in the Prado quite boring... Yes Las Meninas is an enigma but, as my parents noted after a trip to Venice, one can definitely reach saturation point when it comes to pictures of the baby Jesus.

In the Thyssen there's something for everyone. Lovers of modern art won't be disappointed:

Even those who get their kicks from white on white...

People looking for big names in the art world will also be in their element with several incredibly famous paintings dotted about.

Edward Hopper's Hotel Room (1931)

Hans Holbein's Portrait of Henry VIII

Edgar Degas' Swaying Dancer/Dancer in Green (1877-79)

As a historian and a lover of social history I find portraits of real people or events often much more fascinating than any depiction of a religious scene. Below is a selection of my favourite paintings from the Thyssen's collection showcasing the incredible variety of the works under its roof.

Portrait of President George Washington's Cook (1795-1797)

Henri Matisse, Conversation Under Olive Trees (1921)

Portrait of a Man (1475-1476)

From Medieval artworks...



to Georgian and Victorian society portraits...

 and right the way through to pop art...

 the Museo Thyssen Bornemisza has it all. If you visit one museum in the "golden triangle" and you can resist the pull of the Prado then make it this one; you won't be disappointed!

The entry fee is 10 euros and 7 euros for concessions. Free entry for children under 12 and for everyone on Mondays 12-4pm.

If you're familiar with these wonderful museums I'd love to know which one is your favourite. Leave a comment below or tweet me @madridadrift