Showing posts with label El Rastro. Show all posts
Showing posts with label El Rastro. Show all posts

Thursday, 10 September 2015

Location, Location, Location - Where to live in Madrid

Choosing a place to live in Madrid on your year abroad can get confusing what with all the different areas of the city on offer. In this post I'm going to list the various central barrios or neighbourhoods and give a short summary of their main characteristics which hopefully will help you choose where to start your flat search!

In my time abroad I lived in 3 different flats in 3 different barrios so have quite a bit of first hand experience. I won't be going into any great detail as to the price of rooms in certain areas as this can vary but I'll give you a heads up as to the most expensive/cheap areas.

Here's a map of central Madrid with the barrios clearly marked:

 
 
Puerta del Sol/Gran Vía/Callao
 
This is the very heart of the city; Gran Vía is the Spanish equivalent of Oxford street and is often packed with traffic and people. This is not a quiet neighbourhood though the noise is generally traffic related rather than due to clubs/music. Fantastically well connected all the shops/restaurants/bars/cinemas you could want are within walking distance and being right in the centre it's tricky to get lost. Despite its central location though I wouldn't really recommend living in this barrio; too loud and too busy!
 
Malasaña/Chueca
 
These are famously popular areas for young people/students to find a flat. Madrid's self-proclaimed "alternative" barrios Malasaña and Chueca are not for those who like peace and quiet. Malasaña defiantly holds on to the Movida Madrileña spirit of the 80s and is full of trendy bars and clubs. Brilliant independent shops can be found here and there's quite an arty/alternative vibe. Chueca is the city's gay barrio - but don't let that put you off! Sure there are plenty of gay bars etc but the atmosphere is distinctly inclusive with a pretty chilled vibe in the day time and everyone ready to party the night away! Flats here can vary in price (and quality) quite a bit as they're mainly occupied by students and other young people.
 
Colón/Alonso Martínez
 
This barrio links the more edgy Chueca with the more upmarket Chamberí and Salamanca. This is a great spot to live due to its central location and relaxed atmosphere. There are some lovely squares here with plenty of places to eat and shop. Great transport links are also another plus with a cercanías stop as well as metro. Rooms are generally quite cheap especially around Alonso Martínez. The Glorieta de Bilbao is a huge roundabout where several main streets converge; if you follow Calle Fuencarral downwards you'll be in Malasaña and then Sol in no time.
 
Las Cortes/Letras/Las Huertas/Paseo del Prado
 
These areas have more of a traditional/historic vibe. There are still plenty of restaurants and bars (Madrid's most famous jazz bar Café Central is here) but the atmosphere is calmer than Malasaña/Chueca. Unfortunately, though, their proximity to Retiro Park and the Paseo del Prado with its world famous Prado Museum means that these barrios are some of the most expensive in Madrid. Not many students or young people manage to find accommodation in these areas due to the price.
 
Operá/Palacio Real
 
This is the historic heart of Madrid where many of the oldest and most beautiful buildings are to be found. The royal palace is here surrounded by gorgeous gardens and cafes with terraces to sit out in the sun. The main theatre in Madrid is also here with world class drama and opera being performed throughout the year. Much more relaxed than the noisy Malasaña/Chueca but still very central these areas are only a 10 minute walk away from Sol and the Plaza Mayor. Not many students/young people live in these areas as their proximity to the Palace etc has pushed up the price.
 
La Latina/Austrias
 
A small, traditional barrio La Latina is perfect for eating out. The cobbled streets are full of tapas bars particularly Calle de Cava Baja which is famous for the best tapas in the city. Although still pretty close to more expensive areas like Operá this barrio is a little more affordable. One of the least touristy areas of Madrid, La Latina is a great place to witness true Spanish culture. In the day time this area is peace and quiet personified but in the evening it can get a little more lively especially along the more popular eating-out streets.
 
Puerta de Toledo/Lavapies/El Rastro
 
These areas are a bit further out from the centre but still very easy to get to in as little as 3 stops on the metro. Lavapies is the immigrant area of Madrid which can put people off but it's a great place to live for many reasons. Cheap accommodation, great multicultural food stores/restaurants and an interesting night life. In the daytime these areas are full of families and I often saw an African drumming group jamming away as I walked through. For the majority of my time away I lived in Embajadores, a smaller area within Lavapies, and absolutely loved it. El Rastro, Madrid's most famous flea market, is here which is also lovely to mooch around on a Sunday morning.
 
Moncloa/Arguelles
 
This area isn't actually labelled on the map above but it's the light pink section just to the west and north of Malasaña. Many of the students coming to study at Madrid's universities (eg. universidad complutense) lived here as it has such great transport links to the unis. This barrio has a really relaxed vibe with plenty of fresh air and green space; the Templo de Debod is a must see! It's also really close to Casa de Campo the huge green area to the west of the city which is great for walking/picnics etc.
 
Atocha/Retiro
 
These barrios are the closest to Retiro Park and as such are the greenest in the city. Though the majority of flats here are pretty expensive you can occasionally find a good deal. Having the fantastic park on your doorstep may be something you're willing to pay a little extra for! This is a more family focussed part of the city so if it's great nightlife you're after you might want to look elsewhere (though oddly Madrid's most famous club Teatro Kapital is here). Despite being further out of the city you can still hop on the metro and be in Sol in as little as 20 minutes. Atocha railway station is also useful to have nearby as it's where most trains that will take you to explore the rest of Spain will leave from. I lived here for a few months and although the park was right behind my apartment building the huge Paseo Reina Cristina was right in front. This meant that I couldn't really have the windows open because of the noise given off by 7 lanes of speeding traffic - something to think about.
 
Salamanca
 
Salamanca is without doubt the most expensive barrio in Madrid. Huge, wide streets are lined with luxury shops, restaurants and lounge bars. The people that live here are usually a little older having made a success of their careers and are now able to afford a swankier apartment. Also a very family oriented area of the city there are play grounds and designer kids shops dotted about. I was lucky enough to experience life here during my first month in Madrid living in my homestay and could see why it was so popular. Unfortunately, unless you've got quite a bit of money to spend, the rent on a flat here is likely to be just too much but with so many other great places to live in Madrid that's not anything to be disappointed about! 
 
I hope you've found this post useful; if you have any questions just comment below or tweet me @madridadrift. Once you've an idea of where you want to live check out my post on finding a flat which takes you through the process step by step.
 
Tips
  • I focussed on the centre of Madrid for this post but there are plenty of other areas to choose from that are further out of the city.
  • Have a think about where you're going to spend most of your time. If you only need to be in uni for a few hours a week you might not have to live right next door. In fact one of my friends was studying in another town, Alcalá, and chose to live in Madrid catching the train to uni a few times a week.
  • If, like me, you want somewhere that is quiet at night so as not to lose out on sleep then make sure to check out the area you're thinking of on a Thursday, Friday or Saturday night to see how loud it gets
  • Don't get in a panic choosing between areas. Where you live isn't the be-all-and-end-all; think of your flat as a base from which to explore the rest of the city. Madrid is such a great place to live because although it's big enough to hold all the great shops/restaurants/museums/clubs etc. you could want it's still small enough to walk between them. If you find you end up living in an area that wouldn't really be your first choice it doesn't mean you can't experience the other barrios as they're often only a short walk away!
 
 
* The map of Madrid's barrios above was found on laurenonlocation.com

 

Wednesday, 15 April 2015

Librerías - Where to Buy Books in Madrid

A book-lover in Madrid is spoilt for choice; from huge multi-storey book empires to tiny little independent shops, the city is full of places to get your literature fix. There's nothing I like more than a mooch round the city centre on a sunny day and over the last 6 months I've discovered quite a few of these lovely spaces. So, without further ado (and in no particular order), here's a roundup of all the librerías or bookshops I've happened upon so far:

El Corte Inglés

This one is probably the easiest to find as it's right in the Puerta del Sol in the city centre.


Inside it's pretty much the Spanish equivalent of Waterstones with a similiar layout, different sections by genre/author etc, and is of a similar price range (they occasionally have "buy one half price/2 for 1" deals etc) They also have an excellent translated fiction section so if you're on the hunt for a newly released book translated into Spanish this is the place to come. As it's so close to home and has such a good range of books I'm often to be found here on rainy afternoons.

 
El Corte Inglés Preciados Libros, Calle Preciados, 2, 28013 Madrid.
 
FNAC

The FNAC building is also hard to miss; four storeys of music, electrical gear and, right at the top, books. Think HMV but MASSIVE!


I'm not such a fan of FNAC as a bookshop as I am of the other places on this list. They have some beautiful books but the browsing experience gets me down. It's always baking hot and stuffy with fluorescent lighting that just makes me want to get out and breathe some fresh air!


Having said that though this is the place to come if you're looking for graphic novels or manga. I've never seen such a large space in a bookshop dedicated to comics and illustrated books. This fits in with the cool, techie vibe of the rest of the shop perfectly. Though cool this place is pricey; FNAC's current idea of a deal is "buy 2 books and pay €1.50 for a FREE canvas book bag"...um free??

 
Calle Preciados, 28, 28013 Madrid
 
Casa del Libro


This is the place to come if you want a specific book in Spanish; with its miles upon miles of shelves Casa del Libro is sure to have it somewhere. This shop also makes for a great visitor experience with squishy chairs, slidey shelves and brass staircases to book heaven.




Again expect to pay more or less what you would in Waterstones and have fun browsing 'til you drop!

Gran Vía, 29, 28013 Madrid
 
Desperate Literature

This gorgeous little shop is included in my Lonely Planet guidebook but under a different name. Petra's International Bookshop is now Desperate Literature but still sells secondhand books in Spanish, English and French.


Inside is an Aladinn's cave of twinkling fairy lights, crazily patterned carpets and floor to ceiling books.


This place is my kind of bookshop; being secondhand the books are cheaper, the selection in English is certainly my cup of tea and the staff are lovely. Speaking of tea you're likely to be offered a cup as you enter... Terry and Charlotte the couple who've recently taken charge of the shop are looking to get going with all sorts of bookish events so if you're in Madrid at any point be sure to check out Desperate Literature's facebook page (give them a "like" from me!)

Calle Campomanes, 13, 28013 Madrid
 
La Central
 
In my opinion the queen of the bookshops in Madrid is La Central; think Foyles of London and you'll know what I mean. With the selection of Casa del Libro and FNAC combined, foreign language sections and housed in a beautiful old building just off Callao it's everything you could want in a bookshop...except of course for the price. But ah well, we can't have everything.
 
 
 
In La Central a genre has its own room rather than its own shelf and what rooms they are! Just look at how they kick off the children's section:
 
 
The complete opposite of the stifling FNAC with it's honey wood staircases, creamy white walls and cosy reading room, I think I might just move in for the summer.
 

Calle del Postigo de San Martín, 8, 28013 Madrid

The next few on the list aren't exactly bookshops (more bookstalls) but I just couldn't leave them out!

San Ginés Book Stall

At the corner of San Ginés and Calle Arenal is undeniably the cutest book stall I've come across.


It stocks secondhand books but also old posters, postcards and prints. Nice for a quick browse while en route somewhere else.

Claudio Moyano Book Stalls - Retiro

This is one of my favourite places to actually buy books due to the selection and the price (the cheapest I've found in Madrid). Plus its proximity to the park doesn't hurt. Read my full blog post here: Book Stalls - Calle de Claudio Moyano


Calle Claudio Moyano, 28014 Madrid

El Rastro

And finally El Rastro, Madrid's biggest flea market, you can find pretty much anything for sale here. In terms of books look out for hidden gems amongst the jewellery, old furniture and paintings; there are some true antiques to be found. Check out my earlier post about the market here: El Rastro



Well that's it for my bookshop roundup! I've loved compiling this list and I'm sure there'll be a part two in the future what with the number of bookshops still to explore. I hope you've enjoyed reading this and if any of you have any suggestions of posts you'd like to see in the future (book-related or not) just let me know!

Tuesday, 25 November 2014

El Rastro - Madrid's Biggest Flea Market

On Sunday it was the second meeting of "las mujeres creativas" and because I had such a good time at the exhibition I thought it would be good to hang out with them again. For the morning Aurora had organized a photography trip to El Rastro, one of the biggest and best known markets in Madrid, and a possible look in at a book launch in the afternoon. I'd been looking forward to it all week and praying for sunshine so it wouldn't be called off. After a mini adventure on the Cercanías line for the first time I arrived in the sunny Plaza Campillo del Mundo Nuevo and was met by Aurora all on her own. It turns out the others had all had to cancel for some reason so it was just the pair of us that set off to explore the market.

In the square itself there were groups of people crouched over on the floor surrounded by albums and folders bursting with cromos or trading cards. Everything from Pokemon to Magic The Gathering and vintage cigarette cards. A little further in we discovered the book stalls...soooo many lovely books!

 
 
 
The main thoroughfare is packed with people and knock-off clothes, jewellery and bags etc. In the streets off the square were the antiques and more interesting stalls covered in knick knacks.
 
 

 
The sheer variety of the stuff on offer is incredible! The more legitimate sellers are often accompanied by people that have just turned up with a battered suitcase full of odds and ends. I saw one man selling a single mug, a coil of telephone wire and a few plastic toys spread out on his old tweed jacket.
 
 
 
 
 
 
There's no denying the place was crowded but the main crowds were to be found in the more touristy areas. The back streets, though mainly full, still left you with a little room to breathe. I'd been told to watch out for pick pockets but just kept my bag close and was fine.
 
 
 
The market managed to keep hold of its traditional roots while catering to the tourists; there was even an old romany woman playing a barrel organ!
 
 
As well as the street stalls there's an arcade just dedicated to antiques with the larger pieces stored outside in a courtyard.
 
 
 
 
Each shop is themed with some dedicated to 1920s antiques while others are full of Victorian bits and bobs. On the way out we found a tiny shop packed with Spanish antiques and pictures.
 
 
 
Aurora found a pile of tiny paperback novellas and short stories from the 20s that must have been part of a serial or attached to a magazine of some kind. The one she wanted had lost its cover so only cost 2 euros.
 
 
We bought a bag of freshly fried potato crisps and wandered about some more. The sun was really low and I was wearing sunglasses so couldn't really see anything to be honest. I walked straight into a bollard and now have matching bruises on each knee...smooth.
 
 
El Rastro is definitely worth a trip on a Sunday morning; don't listen to the people who say it's been ruined by tourists! Admittedly some parts have been but there are definitely still some hidden gems to be found.
 
To end a little video of an amazing clarinet player from El Rastro:
 
 
  
El Rastro is towards the south of Madrid in the Lavapies area, it's open every Sunday from 8am to 3pm and I arrived via Embajadores metro stop but there are plenty of others to choose from.