Showing posts with label Alcázar. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Alcázar. Show all posts

Monday, 25 May 2015

Sevilla - A Spanish Dream!

Sevilla - the last leg of our Andalucían journey and my favourite city we passed through. There's something in the air in Sevilla; the streets are full of the scent of orange trees and jasmine while the sound of flamenco guitar drifts through the city.

Arriving in the first week of May meant that there was still a hint of feria in the air but that the sheer madness of the fiestas had died down. That didn't mean that there weren't any people about though! On our first night we left our things in the apartment and set off to find dinner through squares crowded with people talking and laughing. Out of all the cities I've visited so far this year Sevilla is the only one apart from Madrid where I felt I could have stayed for the year and been happy - the atmosphere is brilliant.


 
 
Everywhere you looked there were signs for fresh snails or caracoles in garlic oil and people were picking them out of small bowls to suck them from their shells.
 
 
 
 
We found some tapas and went home to discover that our hosts not only had a dog called Rufino but also a tiny hedgehog called Tomás who was allowed to run around the patio at night (he lived in the ensuite bathroom during the day).
 
Next morning we headed to the Real Alcázar de Sevilla (what seemed like our millionth alcázar but Andalucía is full of them!) and spent a couple of hours wandering around the gardens and courtyards.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
This next room with the incredible guilded ceiling was inside the Casa de Contratación where all trade and commerce with the new world was discussed at the time of Isabella and Ferdinand. Christopher Columbus met the royals inside the chapel adjoining this building to present the results of his second voyage to the Americas in the late 1400s (let it out fellow history students, let it out - I won't judge!)
 
 
 
 
Later on when the sun was starting to set and the light turned gold we set off on a quest to find the famous Plaza de España. The city at dusk is just beautiful with tumbling bougainvillea, ornate balconies and the horses stamping in the square - a Spanish dream come true!
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
It would seem that the Fiesta de Las Cruces was celebrated here too - we returned to this square later in the evening for a delicious meal of crispy grilled sea bream.
 
 
 
 


 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
By following the sound of a pretty bombastic brass band we finally emerged at the edge of the Plaza de España and stood in awe. I have to say that this is without doubt one of the most beautiful spaces I've come across in Spain. The sunset was casting shadows on the rippling water, the stone was turned fiery orange and the silver-grey mist from the fountains floated on the breeze.
 
 
 
 
 
 
Some girls added to the moment by rowing backwards round the lake unawares...
 
 
 
 
The last day of our trip was scorchingly hot with temperatures nudging 40 degrees. We unashamedly did absolutely nothing all day but hop from bar to bar in the shade letting the cooling mist sprayed from the awnings wash over us. An air conditioned taxi ferried us to the train station and after a fairly relaxed two hour journey we arrived back in good old Madrid. That night pizza, a film and sleep were in order - we'd seen so much and had a great time but 3 different cities in 6 days requires a certain amount of energy!
 
In the time it's taken me to post this last section of our Andalucía trip I've actually been lucky enough to go on holiday again. This time I spent a lovely weekend in San Sebastián with Annie and Cat - all our adventures and pictures coming soon!
 

Friday, 15 May 2015

Córdoba - La Fiesta de los Patios

The second stop on our Andalucía trip was Córdoba. I remember seeing pictures of La Mezquita (Córdoba's giant Mosque-Cathedral) back in a Spanish lesson in year 8. Then while I was working at the Museo Sorolla here in Madrid one of the staff told me about the huge flower festival that takes place there in May and I was desperate to go!

After only a two hour bus journey from Granada, Chris and I arrived and found our new home for the next couple of days. It was just a family house but had a lovely patio of its own and a sweet little old Spanish lady to show us in.
 
 
 
 
We were starving so headed out for some food. Following a small procession and the smell of incense through the streets from the small church at the end of our road we came across a Roman Temple...
 


 
...and its resident cats:
 
 


 
The streets around the temple are full of little bars and we had a lovely evening that ended in a Jazz Café on the way home.
 
 



The next morning the search for Patios began! La Fiesta de los Patios lasts for several weeks throughout May and is one of the prettiest festivals around. Families fill the patios of their houses with as many flowers as they can fit in and set water features and flamenco soundtracks going ready for the public. This was the first one we saw, complete with terrapins intent on escape...



 
 
 
 
The next one we found is definitely one of my favourites from the whole two days:
 
 

 
Next stop that morning was La Mezquita which is down in the old jewish quarter of the city.
 
 
 
 
 
 


The building has been in turns a Mosque and a Cathedral and then both. Nowadays it serves as a Catholic Cathedral and the moorish architecture blends seamlessly into the Christian half.


 
 
 
 
After La Mezquita we hopped over the Guadalquivir river and across the Puente Romano or "Roman Bridge" for a quick drink in the shade.
 
 
 

 
 
After lunch we headed to the Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos which is just a little way along from the Mezquita.
 
 
 
 
 
 
You can also go underground to see the Arabic baths:
 
 

 
 
The view from the roof takes in the Caballerizas Reales or Royal Stables and the Alcázar's gardens.

 
 
We popped into the stables a little later and saw them exercising the horses:
 
 
 


The gardens of the Alcazár are just like all gardens in Andalucía in May; absolutely lovely:




 


That evening we just wandered about and went for a meal of roast lamb at a restaurant called El Rubio. The sun was setting and the city looked beautiful in the dusk.



 

There were lots of happy geckos scampering about the restaurant's lamps:
 
 
 
 
The next day we devoted to seeing the rest of the patios. I'd heard that the best ones were to be found in the Judería (the Jewish Quarter) and down by the Alcázar so we followed the map we picked up at a stand in the centre. La Fiesta de los Patios is definitely my favourite Spanish festival so far - I have never seen so many gorgeous flowers!



 




 



I'm so glad I was able to make it to Córdoba for the festival as I've been desperate to go for months. The city is typically Spanish; all cobbled streets, whitewashed buildings with coloured shutters and tiny churches. If you go anywhere in Spain next year make it Córdoba in May - you won't regret it!