Tuesday, 25 November 2014

El Rastro - Madrid's Biggest Flea Market

On Sunday it was the second meeting of "las mujeres creativas" and because I had such a good time at the exhibition I thought it would be good to hang out with them again. For the morning Aurora had organized a photography trip to El Rastro, one of the biggest and best known markets in Madrid, and a possible look in at a book launch in the afternoon. I'd been looking forward to it all week and praying for sunshine so it wouldn't be called off. After a mini adventure on the Cercanías line for the first time I arrived in the sunny Plaza Campillo del Mundo Nuevo and was met by Aurora all on her own. It turns out the others had all had to cancel for some reason so it was just the pair of us that set off to explore the market.

In the square itself there were groups of people crouched over on the floor surrounded by albums and folders bursting with cromos or trading cards. Everything from Pokemon to Magic The Gathering and vintage cigarette cards. A little further in we discovered the book stalls...soooo many lovely books!

 
 
 
The main thoroughfare is packed with people and knock-off clothes, jewellery and bags etc. In the streets off the square were the antiques and more interesting stalls covered in knick knacks.
 
 

 
The sheer variety of the stuff on offer is incredible! The more legitimate sellers are often accompanied by people that have just turned up with a battered suitcase full of odds and ends. I saw one man selling a single mug, a coil of telephone wire and a few plastic toys spread out on his old tweed jacket.
 
 
 
 
 
 
There's no denying the place was crowded but the main crowds were to be found in the more touristy areas. The back streets, though mainly full, still left you with a little room to breathe. I'd been told to watch out for pick pockets but just kept my bag close and was fine.
 
 
 
The market managed to keep hold of its traditional roots while catering to the tourists; there was even an old romany woman playing a barrel organ!
 
 
As well as the street stalls there's an arcade just dedicated to antiques with the larger pieces stored outside in a courtyard.
 
 
 
 
Each shop is themed with some dedicated to 1920s antiques while others are full of Victorian bits and bobs. On the way out we found a tiny shop packed with Spanish antiques and pictures.
 
 
 
Aurora found a pile of tiny paperback novellas and short stories from the 20s that must have been part of a serial or attached to a magazine of some kind. The one she wanted had lost its cover so only cost 2 euros.
 
 
We bought a bag of freshly fried potato crisps and wandered about some more. The sun was really low and I was wearing sunglasses so couldn't really see anything to be honest. I walked straight into a bollard and now have matching bruises on each knee...smooth.
 
 
El Rastro is definitely worth a trip on a Sunday morning; don't listen to the people who say it's been ruined by tourists! Admittedly some parts have been but there are definitely still some hidden gems to be found.
 
To end a little video of an amazing clarinet player from El Rastro:
 
 
  
El Rastro is towards the south of Madrid in the Lavapies area, it's open every Sunday from 8am to 3pm and I arrived via Embajadores metro stop but there are plenty of others to choose from.



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