El Café Comercial

During my year abroad I have to complete an extended project for my university called a Year Abroad Research Project or YARP. I've chosen to focus mine on the café culture of the 1920s and the reasons why cafés were so important to the avant garde movement in Spain during this decade. This means I get to spend lots of time in old cafés listening to jazz and watching the world go by (whilst doing important research obviously...) I thought it would be nice to keep a record of the cafés I visit so here's the first on the list.

El Café Comercial claims to be Madrid's oldest café; officially it first obtained its licence in 1887 but there's evidence to suggest that there's been a café on this spot since 1870. It's been in the Contreras family since 1909 and is currently being run by the fourth generation. In the past it was a favourite meeting place for many famous artists, writers, musicians, poets, toreros (bullfighters) and journalists. Now its marble tables are still likely to be occupied by a pretty diverse crowd with an internet café upstairs and long-standing chess club meaning it's popular with both young and old.

A friend from Southampton, Catriona, and I decided to visit the café as we'd heard there was a language exchange going on between 1-3pm. Once we'd arrived, however, it was obvious that this particular exchange wasn't really what we were looking for as the majority of the small group were retirees. Knowing there are plenty of other exchanges dotted around the city that cater for younger people, we decided to just have a coffee and a look around.

The café has a great atmosphere with everyone, from students on laptops to families and groups of friends out for a drink, enjoying the space and a snack or two.

Drinks are served by waiters in old fashioned uniforms which is nicely nostalgic and doesn't make them any less friendly.

The walls are lined with books which I think are part of some sort of mobile library/bookshop initiative. Even if you don't buy one it's still nice to have a quick read with your coffee. On the whole I heartily recommend this place. The only thing that lets it down is the soundtrack; admittedly you can only really hear it round at the bar, but who wants to listen to trashy pop while sipping their café con leche?

El Café Comercial is located just opposite Bilbao Metro Station at Glorieta de Bilbao