The park itself is beautiful; an oasis of greenery in the middle of the hectic city. It's the only place so far, except the shower, where I haven't been able to hear any traffic!
The wide avenues are full of children scooting about on hired go-karts, young professionals jogging, couples taking a stroll and families out for a picnic.
Despite the crowds around the lake the park's so large you're almost guaranteed to find a space to yourself away from it all.
The lake itself is dotted with hired rowing boats which bob about in front of King Alfonso XII's monument. Inaugurated in 1922, this consists of a huge bronze statue of the king mounted on an enormous plinth and surrounded by a magnificent colonnade.
El Retiro is a lovely place to go for a walk at the weekend or after work. It doesn't really have an off day as during the week, in the summer months, the madrileños eat lunch there and take a siesta under the trees and families fill it at weekends.
There are plenty of buskers along the paths around the lake adding a soundtrack of light jazz to your stroll.
Isabel was keen to make sure I had a photo next to one of the street vendors in his traditional flat cap and waistcoat. They sell roasted chestnuts and other wafer or pastry snacks.
After our walk Isabel and I went for a drink in a nearby tapas bar called La Casa Del Abuelo. Opened in 1906 and a little pricey, this beautiful space was pretty much everything you could want from a tapas bar. We each ordered a caña (a small glass of beer) and it came with a tiny plate of paella.
The food was gorgeous but I'm afraid I'm still not a fan of beer - where is the cider in this city?! There's so much in this park I haven't seen, including the Palacio Cristal, the art gallery and the many hidden corners and manicured gardens, that I'm sure to be back sometime in the future. It'll be interesting to see how it changes with the seasons.
El Parque Buen Retiro is a little to the east of the main city behind the Prado museum and can be accessed via various metro stations including Retiro and Ibiza
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